What is BBQ?
The origin of the word barbeque is most likely from a Spanish phrase from the mid-16th century: barbacoa, possibly adopted it from the Arawak (Caribbean indigenous people) barbicu, which translates to “wooden frame on posts.” Wherever the name comes from, humans have cooked over open coals since we first discovered fire, and whatever we call it, the result is the same: meat flavoured by fire.
For those who live outside the cultural hotspots of this time-honoured tradition, “bar-b-que” is a blanket term for anything cooked outside, but true barbeque—whether Kansas City, Memphis, Carolina, or Texas style—is different from grilling. So, let’s call your stainless steel, gas-fuelled monstrosity what it is: an outdoor grill. You may be having a barbeque, but you are not barbequing. You’re grillin’, son. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.
True barbeque is low and slow
It’s not true barbeque until you add low heat, live fire, and flavourful smoke, and that can’t happen indoors. Over 15 years ago, I began my journey into barbeque with a classic Weber kettle grill, apple and mesquite wood chips, and a love of cooking.
Since then, I have experienced some amazing moments and fed a lot of hungry, grateful people. It may sound strange, but I even remember distinct cuts of meat: the happy accident of a $100 tomahawk steak I let flare too much but somehow cooked perfectly; the discovery of mouth-watering tri-tip while I lived in California; the bacon-weaved tenderloin I smoked for my friend’s birthday; the smoked bourbon-bacon chicken wings I shared over the fence with my neighbours.
All the BBQ sauces and rubs I made from scratch. I recall these actual cuts of meat and how happy they made everyone around me.
Barbeque requires commitment and focus
The skill required to BBQ is more complicated than grilling. Whereas grilling requires your attention—so flare-ups don’t burn your meat—BBQ requires way more focus for a much longer period of time. With charcoal to fuel BBQ and an aim to keep temperatures and cooking times “low and slow,” a BBQ chef must stay by the fire or smoker to ensure the temperature stays low enough to keep the meat tender, and smoky enough to impart the flavour. Too hot, and you’re grilling tough meat. Not smoky enough, and you’re missing out on the whole point.
This isn’t to say barbeque is thankless work. The slow and deliberate act of smoking meat is enjoyable, and the result means a lot of happy people telling you’re good at something, when all you’ve really done is put in the time. Much like any great cooking—or act of love—it takes time to do something right. I like to swear on this saying: “The difference between ‘pretty good’ and ‘goddamn great’ is giving a f***.”
Ancient methods, modern tools
The art is ancient. Once humankind figured out that fire not only preserves your meat a little longer but also adds flavour, the methods of making great barbeque began evolving. On hunting and fishing sojourns, indigenous peoples worldwide smoke fish and meat in portable huts built specifically to dry and flavour their haul before returning home to hungry families. In other locations, humans have learned to bury whole animals in pits with coals, slow roasting and smoking the meat to perfection.
Modern day barbequing comes in many forms, from expensive pellet-fed grills with Bluetooth-enabled meat thermometers to the classic hibachi, which is technically a portable grill but can be rigged to smoke with some tinfoil and wood chips. Bringing a hibachi to the beach means great grilling for your crew, but you may want to make sure you are far from others if you smoke, or bring enough for everyone and hope there are no vegans downwind.
The many styles of American BBQ
Within the culture of American BBQ, there are many styles, too many to list here. From the way it is cooked to the cuts of meat to the rubs and sauces used, the options feel infinite.
Four styles stick out more prominently than most, though:
- Kansas City-style BBQ uses meats rubbed with sweet seasoning, then drowned in thick sauce.
- Memphis-style BBQ primarily relies on ribs and pork shoulders. This is where pulled pork makes its name, with a tangier sauce.
- Carolina style is all about the whole hog, cooked with Herculean patience and skill—not to mention up to 23 hours—to do it right. These men and women who mop whole pigs with apple juice on Bourdain’s shows are practicing this style. We call them Pitmasters. It’s a sacred, if sweaty, position.
- Texas BBQ, perhaps the most accessible style, varies by region. West Texas is all about mesquite smoke, while East Texas reveres brisket—the cherished pectoral muscle of cattle that is virtually useless until you spend hours making smoky love with it.
Final thoughts on barbeque
Whatever style you begin with, remember to take your time, keep the temperature low, don’t walk away from your fire for long, and only buy meat from a trusted butcher or farmer. Quality in is quality out, and Walmart can’t provide that. To eat another animal is no small thing, so honour its life by making it as flavourful and enjoyable as possible.
