Mud squeezes up between my toes, and as I look down, one of my flip-flops is sucked off my foot, disappearing out of sight. Maybe not the best choice of footwear for the trip, I grumble. This is only the second portage, and I wonder if this adventure is more than I had bargained for. I’m bent over, shin-deep in the muck now, fishing around for my flip-flop; my pack nearly pulls me over. My brother laughs at me as he and our dad continue to drag the shiny new 17-foot Clipper along on its cart. We had decided that cramming three grown men and all our gear into one canoe would be an efficient way to do the canoe route.
The Sayward Forest Canoe Loop is nearly 50 kilometres long, with 13 portages. The recommended direction is counter-clockwise, and the route takes most people three to four days. While there are many possible starting points, Morton Lake Provincial Park seems to be the best option for safe parking. Aside from the one muddy portage that attempts to claim my poor flip-flop, we find many of the trails—remnants of old logging rail grades—are gently sloped, amply wide, perfect for canoe carts. The Sayward Forest is a beautiful recreation destination, and it is also still a busy working forest.
“Despite the initial muddy first impression, the following three days are filled with incredible views over a carefully planned route with excellent campsites”
The Sayward Fire (also called the Bloedel Fire or the Great Fire of 1938) burned most of the area, followed by the first planting project in British Columbia. Almost 800,000 seedlings were planted in one month, accompanied by various silviculture techniques to promote growth. Since then, the highly productive site has produced vast second-growth stands. BC Timber Sales, a provincial government agency within the Ministry of Forests, plans, develops, and auctions timber from Crown land for harvest by registered bidders, often small local companies.
The quality of timber here is proof of the vitality of these forests. I have had the privilege of working in the Sayward Forest for over 11 years, buying logs destined to become utility poles. Some of the best and fastest-growing Douglas firs on Vancouver Island thrive here.
Setting off from our truck on the first day, I wonder if the fact that the Sayward Forest is a working forest will take away from my experience. While I am biased, I find the opposite to be true. Despite the initial muddy first impression, the following three days are filled with incredible views over a carefully planned route with excellent campsites.
Paddling down Amor Lake on the first day, we revel in the warm sun and views of lush green forests surrounding the water. We decide to camp at the Mr. Canoehead site between Amor Lake and Surprise Lake. I especially enjoy this site for its more remote feel, as it’s one of the camping spots inaccessible by car. That evening, we savour barbecued steaks while sitting on logs, looking south over Surprise Lake. A benefit to squishing three of us into the boat is more hands to carry things like barbecues over portages!
“Paddling the canoe loop offers a unique perspective of the Sayward Forest that you can’t experience from the road”
The following day involves navigating a combination of lakes and the narrow, winding creeks that connect them. Low water in some of the creeks results in walking the canoe a bit more than we’d expected. The classic canoe colours, red and yellow, have left marks on many rocks just below the surface; Dad holds his breath, since his Clipper is virtually new. Maybe a well-used rental boat would be a good idea next time, I think.
We spend the second night at Campbell Lake campground halfway along Campbell Lake. With its warm south-facing gravel beach, it’s a great place to swim and hang out. The third and final day is a bit of a blur: up early and back to the truck as soon as possible. Why do we do this, as if we are in a rush to get back to our busy lives? It seems silly, looking back.
Paddling the canoe loop offers a unique perspective of the Sayward Forest that you can’t experience from the road. I highly recommend it to those willing to put a little sweat into their adventures!
