Deep in the earth
Deep in the heart of the earth our voices sounded muted, absorbed by layers of rock. Daylight from the entrance of Upana Caves had faded away. Darkness wrapped around us like a mantle with only the thin beams of our headlamps to illuminate the tunnel walls. My elevated heart rate was not solely from moving in a crouch, ducking stalactites, but from the suspense of an unknown environment. Stepping into an open grotto, we fell quiet with wonder at our surreal surroundings. I steadied my breathing and let myself be lost in the moment.
Journey to the caves
Earlier that morning we had driven west toward Tahsis along a bumpy gravel road, admiring the lush green valley of summer. We had camped at Buttle Lake in Strathcona Provincial Park, enjoying water sports, backcountry trails, and Gold River’s pub and bakery cafe. Sunlight streamed through the forest behind us as we drove, but up ahead black thunderclouds validated the chance of a storm in the forecast.
Our small group found the cave’s parking area just past Upana Lake with information posted at the Interpretive Forest Site trailhead. Five main caves and numerous smaller ones had more than 15 entry points. Names like Corner-Slither Cave and Resurgence enhanced the sense of adventure. A looping trail covered about a kilometre of coastal rainforest, taking us past all the cave entrances. Soft moss, ferns, salal, and snowberry, punctuated with pink fireweed, crowded the narrow path’s sides. A current of cool air from the caves dropped the temperature drastically before we even began our descent. An ancient energy was felt by all. For thousands of years, Indigenous people have connected with Vancouver Island’s caves for ceremony and to source revered spring water.
The fascinating karst landscape
Hiking through the Upana Caves Trail’s karst topography will keep you on your toes as you discover how water has dissolved limestone and marble over time. A rushing waterfall can suddenly disappear into the ground. The power of the Pacific Ocean is only 25 kilometres away. Centuries ago, crushed shells and sea creature remains formed limestone, which cracked as tectonic plate action pushed it above sea level. Streams cascaded down through the rich soil of the surrounding mountains, looking for fissures in the bedrock. They became a subterranean river, forming caves with hidden springs and an underground lake. Nature’s shifts can be admired in beautiful mineral deposits and flowstones left behind.
Exploring the cave system
Two light sources and a protective helmet are wise when caving, as the height above your head constantly changes and provides unforgiving reminders. The bravest spelunkers can expect their clothes to suffer wear and tear from slithering through narrow, muddy tunnels. We encountered other explorers enjoying the Main Cave with its keyhole entry and natural rock steps. The Insect Cave lived up to its moniker, as the natural light filtering in helped us see spiders, crickets, salamanders, and beetles. The final cave, Resurgence Cave, was truly a masterpiece. Steep wooden stairs led down to a huge cavern, with breathtaking polished white stone and clear pools. Several tunnels led deeper still, with rock patterns reminiscent of the bones of a sleeping beast.
Nature’s symphony underground
A muted rumble in the distance above sent a gentle tremor through the limestone. A storm was rolling through the valley. We were protected from the torrential downpour that quickly passed overhead. The smell of roots and earth took over as rivulets of water made their way down rock walls, reflecting our lights with ethereal brilliance.
I emerged from the caves renewed, feeling grounded. Our reflections in the karst water pools had connected us to forces bigger than ourselves. Upana Caves’ mysteries are well worth the journey—you may find something you didn’t know you were looking for, far beyond the adventure itself.
