I’ve been bumping up against a lot of self-proclaimed eggplant haters lately. “Impossible!” is usually my reply. Once we get beyond their initial state of confusion, a quick line of questioning will reveal that, as I suspected, they have much exploration to do in the world of this glossy purple fruit (Solanum melongena).
“Have you tried eggplant blackened whole over a rich bed of charcoal, whipped with tahini and lemon, then dusted with parsley and sumac in a far-away land? Or delicately dredged and deep fried, then kissed with five spice, soy, and Sichuan peppercorns?” Rarely is the answer in the affirmative.
“Have you had it as a pickle in a proper Italian deli sandwich? Swaddled in a hammock of salami and softly embraced in a crusty roll?” Invariably, the answer to these questions is no.
Eggplants’ exploratory spirit
I believe that it is impossible to declare oneself a hater of this purple wonder until one has consumed it in every conceivable method known in the cookery canon. Could the same argument be made of other vegetables? Perhaps. But none exemplify the exploratory spirit more so than the eggplant.
Whether deep fried or braised, grilled or steamed, pretty much any cooking technique can yield a beautiful result. [Editor’s note: the internet reveals that in India, eggplant is known as the King of Vegetables. This must mean something.] However, providing a simple road map for success is a surprisingly complex task, full of contradictory rules and guidelines. For example, while eggplant does have the tendency to absorb too much oil, deep frying it in hot oil yields a beautiful product that isn’t greasy at all.
Eggplant is the chameleon of the vegetable world, the shape shifter, the flavour sponge, a blank slate onto which we can apply our creative impulses. When it comes to flavour, cultures around the world have painted the eggplant with their palette, so get your globe out (deliberate pun there) and pick a location. Forget the oyster; the world is your eggplant.
That said, the eggplant presents more opportunities for failure than any other plant that identifies as a vegetable—and when poorly cooked, it really is the worst. When undercooked, it’s rubbery and spongy in a way that makes for a remarkably undesirable feel in the mouth. Debates rage around salting it, and whether or not to eat the skin. A potential misstep awaits at every turn.
A suggested method for beginners and one for those looking for more adventure
For those trepidatiously embarking on a new eggplant journey, I suggest either grilling it or frying it. Start with slices an inch thick and pay close attention; you want the result to be a golden-brown exterior and a creamy interior. If the eggplant blackens on the outside before it’s cooked through, lower the temperature.
For those looking for a bit more adventure, there’s nothing quite like an eggplant roasted whole on a BBQ. Turn it occasionally, until it’s sunken and dripping, then peel off the blackened skin and fold the flesh into a yogurt- or tahini-based dip.
Is the exploration of the eggplant fraught with risk and danger? Why, yes, it is, but isn’t every great exploration? As I encourage the curious to embark on this culinary adventure, I provide the following set of guidelines: approach the eggplant with either generosity or restraint; apply plenty of heat, passion, and vigour—or just leave it to slowly simmer. Stay in tune with its needs and adjust your approach accordingly. The reward for your perseverance is a remarkable world of beguiling and delightful dishes.
I leave you with a final question: if we are unwilling to explore the eggplant, what else are we unwilling to explore?
